Fabric
Fabric for dresses
The same pattern looks completely different in a crisp cotton and in a flowing rayon. Pick fabric for how you want it to move, then for how easy it is to sew.
Easy to sew
| Fabric | Feels like | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton poplin | Crisp, smooth, holds a shape | Shirt dresses, structured skirts |
| Cotton lawn | Light and fine, a little sheer | Summer dresses, gathered styles |
| Linen and linen blends | Breathable, wrinkles easily | Relaxed summer dresses |
| Chambray | Like a light denim | Casual and shirt dresses |
Beautiful, but harder
- Rayon (viscose) and crepe: lovely drape, but they shift while you cut. Use plenty of pins or pattern weights.
- Satin and silk: slippery and they show every pin hole. Save them for a later dress.
- Knits and jersey: comfortable and need no zipper, but they need a stretch or ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch.
- Chiffon: sheer and slippery. Usually needs a lining.
How much to buy
The pattern envelope tells you, by size and by fabric width. Buy an extra quarter to half yard for shrinkage and mistakes, and more if the fabric has a print you need to match at the seams.
Before you cut
- Wash and dry it the way you'll wash the dress.
- Press it flat.
- Check for a nap or a one-way print, which means all pieces must face the same direction.
Where to look
- Cotton poplin by the yard
- Linen by the yard
- Rayon challis, for drape
- Plain muslin, for practice versions
Online, order a swatch first when you can. Color and weight are hard to judge from a photo.
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