Altering
Altering a dress you already own
A dress that almost fits is the quickest way to a dress that's yours. These fixes need a machine, or a needle and some patience.
Shortening the hem
- Put the dress on with the shoes you'll wear, and have someone pin the new length, or mark it standing in front of a mirror.
- Take it off and measure the same distance from the floor (or the old hem) all the way around. Chalk a line.
- Cut, leaving room for the hem itself: about 1 to 2 inches for most fabrics.
- Fold up twice, press, pin and stitch close to the fold.
On a lined dress, hem the lining about an inch shorter than the outside so it never peeks out.
Shortening straps
Unpick the strap where it joins the back, try the dress on, pin the strap to the new length, then trim and stitch it back in the same spot. Much faster than adjusting the front.
Taking in the sides
- Turn the dress inside out and put it on.
- Pin along both side seams the same amount until it fits.
- Mark the pin line with chalk, take it off, and sew a new seam that blends smoothly into the old one at both ends.
- Try it on before you trim anything.
When to pay a tailor
- Letting a dress out: there's often not enough seam allowance to do it.
- Anything involving beading, sequins or lace that has to be matched.
- Major changes to a wedding or formal dress you can't replace.
Handy for alterations
- Stitch Witchery hem tape, for a no-sew hem in a pinch
- John James hand needles
- A Clover seam ripper
- A Dritz seam gauge, for even hems